Retinol for Sensitive Skin: Everything You Need to Know to Avoid Irritation

Retinol is a mainstay in both prescription and over-the-counter skincare, and even though it’s not as strong as prescription retinoids, like Tretinoin, retinols can be harsh and irritating, especially for sensitive skin. You can lessen the irritating effects of retinol or try some alternative treatments that are gentler on your skin.

Common Symptoms of Sensitive Skin

Your skin is considered sensitive if you commonly have a reaction to skincare or cosmetic products or environmental changes that don't cause a reaction in most people. Sensitive skin is most common on your face but can be any place where your skin is thinner, like your armpit or groin. 

Reactions can be visible like bumps or discoloration, or not visible like stinging and burning sensations. Typically the reaction will stop when the irritant is removed.

The most common reactions include:

• Raised skin or bumps

• Rash or hives

• Dry, peeling, scaling, or flaky skin

• Redness or discoloration

• Burning or stinging

• Tingling or itching

• Pain

A reaction can be triggered by anything from cleaning products and detergents to soaps and lotions. For some people, it’s triggered by outside factors like climate or medications. For others, a health condition or hormonal change can cause a reaction.

If you have sensitive skin, avoid triggers, use gentle soaps and unscented products, moisturize often, avoid sun exposure, stay hydrated, and wear gloves when handling cleaning products.¹

Can Retinol Benefit Sensitive Skin

Retinol can help skin become smoother, even out skin tone, and decrease any dark spots. It can, however, irritate sensitive skin. If you have sensitive skin, you may still benefit from retinol use if you are careful. 

Retinol can increase skin sensitivity to the sun causing you to burn easily. To minimize risks from sun exposure, you should only use retinol products at night and protect your skin from the sun with SPF 30+ (ideally SPF 50) sunscreen and protective clothing.²

If you have serious allergies, dry skin, active inflammation, or rosacea, speak to your dermatologist before introducing retinol into your skincare routine. 

Also avoid retinol if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.⁶

How to Choose the Right Retinol for Sensitive Skin

If your skin is sensitive, you need to take special care when choosing your retinol products. Experts suggest easing into using retinol to avoid negative reactions.³

• Start with a gentle version of retinol like retinyl ester, a less concentrated vitamin A derivative, or look for a retinol product with a 0.25 percent concentration. You can also try a retinoid product designed to reduce irritation like Foundation Skincare’s Night Renewal Cream. It contains peptides that will keep skin looking firmer.

• Use a moisturizer first or mix your retinol product with a moisturizer to protect your skin from irritation. 

• Look for products with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide which protect, hydrate, and calm skin. Foundation Skincare’s Niacinamide Lotion 10% contains ceramides, giving extra protection to sensitive skin. It can also repair sun damaged skin.  You can layer it with Hyaluronic Acid Lotion for a hydration boost and the anti-inflammatory power of shea butter and chamomile, green tea, and olive extracts.

Apply First With a Test Patch

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests starting with a test patch to make sure you don’t have a negative reaction.⁴ 

• Apply the retinol product to a quarter-sized test spot twice a day for seven to 10 days. Don’t test on your face. Use the underside of your arm at the elbow or armpit.

• Use the amount and thickness you would use on your face.

• Leave on as long as you normally would.

• If you don’t have a reaction after 10 days (red, itchy, or swollen skin), it’s ok to start using the product.

• If you do have a reaction, wash the product off and don’t use it again.

• Use a cool compress or petroleum jelly to relieve your skin. If the reaction is severe, see your doctor.

Use Retinol During Your Nighttime Routine

Retinol products should be used at night and introduced gradually into your nighttime skincare routine.

Experts suggest using once a week for one week, then twice a week for two weeks, and then three times a week for three weeks. If you have no side effects, you can start using every other night. If you do have side effects, back up one step. Don’t ignore reactions.⁵

Keep these tips in mind when using retinol products:

• Clean and dry skin before applying retinol.

• Don’t use it with another product containing retinol. Read labels carefully.

• Don’t use it if you're sunburned or if skin is broken or irritated.

• Pair your retinol product with products that help protect or calm skin, including hyaluronic acid or niacinamide.⁵

• If you use a vitamin C serum or lotion, don’t pair with a retinol product. Instead, use your vitamin C lotion in the morning and your retinol product at night.⁵ 

• Azelaic acid products like Azelaic Acid 14% Cream also should be used in the morning if you are using retinol at night.

If your skin can’t tolerate prescription formulas, try Foundation Skincare’s Night Renewal Cream. Made with 2 percent granactive retinoid, a gentler form of retinol, it’s formulated to accelerate cell turnover and improve collagen growth without irritating sensitive skin. It helps skin look smoother and refreshed, minimizing wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots. It’s also gentle enough to use with your other skincare products.

Alternative Options to Retinol

Don’t fret if retinol is too harsh for your skin. There are other products on the market that offer the same benefits and are better suited for sensitive skin. Look for these ingredients on the label:

• Bakuchiol: Derived from plants, bakuchiol benefits skin like retinol, but is gentler, according to a few small studies. Experts say it’s promising, but needs more research.^7,8

• Peptides: Peptides are amino acids that stimulate the production of proteins like collagen and fight inflammation. Unfortunately, the quantity and quality of the peptides in a product can be difficult to determine.10,11

• Alpha hydroxy acids: Created from sugar cane, it exfoliates dead skin cells and brightens your complexion. It doesn’t benefit skin in all the ways retinol products can, such as collagen production and increased cell turnover. While it’s not as harsh as retinol, use with caution on sensitive skin.7  

• Azelaic acid: Often recommended for sensitive skin, azelaic acid comes from rye, wheat, and barley. It can reduce redness and inflammation, discoloration, and acne breakouts. It’s also a gentle exfoliant that helps reduce skin discoloration.12 Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream is a great alternative to the harsh effects of retinol. It’s formulated by dermatologists and contains the highest concentration of azelaic acid available without a prescription. Specifically designed for sensitive skin, it minimizes the effects of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. Plus, it layers well with your other skincare products. You also can alternate with Night Renewal Cream, using the azelaic acid product in the morning.

If you live with sensitive skin, there are products that can help you have great looking skin without causing unwanted reactions. Read labels, test products safely, and listen to your skin.

---

References:

1. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/sensitive-skin

2. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/anti-aging/retinoid-retinol

3. https://www.allure.com/story/retinols-sensitive-skin

4. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/prevent-skin-problems/test-skin-care-products

5. https://www.cerave.com.au/blog/everyday-skin-care/how-to-apply-retinol

6. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23293-retinol 

7. https://www.nbcnews.com/select/shopping/best-retinol-alternatives-ncna1303652

8. https://www.jintegrativederm.org/article/38079-a-comprehensive-review-of-topical-bakuchiol-for-the-treatment-of-photoaging

9. https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/bakuchiol-does-it-make-skin-look-younger

10. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11762834/

11. https://health.clevelandclinic.org/peptides-for-skin

12. https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/what-to-know-about-azelaic-acid-skin